crankin
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posted on 7/20/10 at 06:26 AM |
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Battery
I need a new battery to start my 1988 50hp Johnson outboard. I don't know anything about batteries. Do I need a marine grade battery or could I use
plain-jane car battery? Could I start my motor with a deep cycle marine battery, or is that just for running accessories on the boat? Thanks.
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tog54
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posted on 7/20/10 at 06:45 AM |
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Battery
You will probably want to go with the deep cycle it should have plenty of amps to crank the motor and can be recharged many times since the way most
boats are run they don't always recharge the battery while running.
Tom
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scadaguy
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posted on 7/21/10 at 06:37 AM |
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Go to a battery shop, they will sell you one that is best for a boat. You don't want to get stuck
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taper
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posted on 7/21/10 at 10:15 AM |
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On an 1988 50 horse motor it should have a charging circuit. It works just like your car as long as it runs long enough to recharge. All you need is a
normal automotive style battery for cranking. If you also run a trolling motor it should be on a deep cycle that the construction of the battery
allows it to be discharged and recharged multiple times and not be effected.
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boatnut
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posted on 7/21/10 at 06:08 PM |
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you need a marine starting battery. Usually higher cranking amps then a auto battery.
Starting batteries are designed for just that...high amp loads to start engine then engine immediately recharges the battery.
Deep cycle batteries are designed for low amp discharge over time then recharged and repeat same cycle.
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crankin
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posted on 7/22/10 at 06:44 AM |
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Thanks for your help guys
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bassndude
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posted on 7/26/10 at 11:38 AM |
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Crankin' Here is what I know about batteries.
Crankin' batteries have a different internal construction than deep cycle batteries. That's the difference. Plate thickness and density allow the
batteries to operate better under different circumstances.
Deep cycle battery plates are thicker and can handle the multiple charge and discharge cycles when used with something like trolling motors and
livewells etc.
Cranking batteries have thinner plates and are more specific to providing a quick burst of power to start a motor. They can provide power to run a
trolling motor but will burn out faster as they can not sustain the constant draw that is required.
Marine deep cycles do not have as thick of plates as do true deep cycles but are sufficient for use for us fishermen. Even those who run 36 V
systems.
I am not sure if you are doing anything else with your battery other than starting the boat. If you are running a trolling motor or livewell off it as
well consider a deep cycle/starting battery. The plates are thicker than a cranking battery but not as thick as the deep cycle battery. It will do
both jobs ok. Considering you have a 50 HP motor, you will not likely need a huge amount of cranking amps. Your boat motor while running will charge
the battery as it has an alternator. It's just when you find the honey hole and sit there for 6 hours while running your electronics all day that you
will notice a significant strain on the battery and not have enough juice to turn er over.
If you run a lot of current drawing accessories: radio, lights, livewell, trolling motor etc etc. Consider getting two batteries. This will guarantee
you don't drain the battery below a point in which you will not be able to start the boat as well as ensure you get the proper tool for the job.
As always size matters... There are two typical sizes that are used in marine applications. Size 24 and size 27. Size 24 has a smaller footprint so
saves space and of course weight. The down side is the amount of "MCA" marine cranking amps and/or "RC" or reserve capacity in the battery (the
amount of minutes you can run a sustained draw of 25 amps at a useful voltage). RC is a better measure than the AMPHOURS rating. There is also a
larger size 31 available but I have had good luck with size 27's in my boat.
I run 4 batteries in my boat: 2 x size 27 deep cycles to run my 74 lb trolling motor, 1 x size 27 deep cycle to run electronics, 1 x size 24 deep
cycle/cranking battery to start the boat and run 1 Lowarnce GPS/fish finder (I run 1 GPS off the other electronics deep cycle too) . I do this for 2
reasons: 1) to minimize electrical interference between the units and 2) so I can monitor the voltage of the batteries thru my units... This allows me
to monitor it during the day when I actually catch fish and need to keep them fresh with the livewell fresh and recirc pumps.
Look around and you will notice that even batteries of the same size will have different RC and MCA ratings. Choose wisely and remember you get what
you pay for.
Also charge it properly before and after each use to maximize life. They ain't cheap!
If you get lead acid batteries make sure you check that the water levels are good and topped off. If you need to refill DO NOT use tap water or any
water with minerals in it. IT will contaminate the plates and make them less effective.
Use water that has been purified by RO (reverse osmosis) or distillation. Aqua Fina is RO. Most 5 gallon blue jugs of water in mater coolers are RO or
distillation and sometimes both. If you are looking for bottled water look at the label and if it has any PPM readings for things like NO3, Ca, SO4,
Mg, Cl, P, PO4 etc. It's likely well (aka "Spring") water and you shouldn't use it! That's the stuff that contaminates the plates when it comes
out of solution.
Check the bottles of water: it should have 0 readings for all those things and more... Like I said Aqua Fina (I think) and most blue 5 gallon jugs.
It may sound excessive to carefully choose the water you add but trust me, it makes a BIG difference in performance and longevity. If you can't
justify buying a $2 bottle of Aqua Fina (or similar) just think of having to shell out $100 for a new battery. Oh yeah - just remembered, most bottle
refill places will use reverse osmosis, you can fill a 5 gallon jug for about $3. You can also get smaller quantities and fill a jug/bottle from home
for less.
Tap water has all that chemical stuff in it too. So don't use it. Well water will too if you have access to it, so don't use it either. IF you must,
use tap water and have BRITA filter, that is better than straight tap water but not as good as RO or distilled water.
There is also the electrolyte used that is different inside the batteries, but around here you will only most likely be able to get lead acid
batteries. AGM is expensive and you will not likely see any noticeable benefits to justify the added cost. Not going to get into that, as I do not
have as much knowledge in that area.
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SilverTip
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posted on 7/26/10 at 12:27 PM |
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Great post!!
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Brent
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posted on 7/26/10 at 02:01 PM |
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That was very informative! Great post for sure!
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rascal49
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posted on 7/26/10 at 03:46 PM |
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One other thing......car batteries (like bassndude said) have thinner plates. These batteriesc are NOT made to be discharged. If you run them flat it
will really shorten the life of the battery and when it gets cold, that is when they fail. Marine/RV batteriesare made to be discharged and recharged
many times. Not only do they have thicker plates but the case and the plate mountings inside the battery are made to withstand the continual pounding
from running over rough water. You will also find that marine/RV deep cycle batteries are almost the same price.
Good luck.
Remember, kids are the future of our sport. Teach them wisely and take them with you often.
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finster
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posted on 7/26/10 at 07:26 PM |
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Personally I would not trust reverse osmosis water either.
Most filtration systems are there for removal of biological contaminants.
When at your favourite auto supply, look for distilled or deionized water.
I buy deionized water as it's good for your wife's steam iron, your radiator cooling systems and lead acid batteries.
You can also buy battery stabilizer which helps with over-winter storage.
"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell - you see, I have friends in both places."Mark Twain
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"All that's necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing."Benjamin Franklin
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bassndude
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posted on 7/28/10 at 09:48 PM |
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Agreed Fins, deionized is the key word to look for if buying water. Distilled water should be essentially deionized.
I used to buy gallon LaSalle Aqua Mist jugs of water and it was distilled and deionized which is the best you can get for batteries, radiators,
wife's steam iron etc.
That way you get just plain ole water (H2O) and nothing else to kill a battery. I haven't had good luck with the battery restoring solutions you can
buy, they didn't work for me... I am not sure if that is the same stuff as the winter stabilizer stuff you are talking about.
Hmmmmm.... Might also try water from a dehumidifier, it is essentially water from the air, not sue what chemicals would be in there...
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rascal49
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posted on 7/28/10 at 10:40 PM |
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Distilled water is available at your local pharmacy
Remember, kids are the future of our sport. Teach them wisely and take them with you often.
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crankin
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posted on 7/29/10 at 11:50 AM |
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Wow bassndude...great post. Thanks again for all of your help guys.
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finster
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posted on 7/29/10 at 05:16 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by bassndude
Agreed Fins, deionized is the key word to look for if buying water. Distilled water should be essentially deionized.
Hmmmmm.... Might also try water from a dehumidifier, it is essentially water from the air, not sure what chemicals would be in there...
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There are three reasons why a lead acid battery dies early.
1...Improper charging or overcharging.
2...Low charge allowing a battery to freeze.
3...Using tap water to top it up.
All are preventable. I have not had any luck restoring a battery once it's dead.
I use Kleen Flo Battery Treatment to extend the life of my batteries.
I use only deionized water for topping up the batteries.
Both are available at Canadian Tire at minimal cost.
Why take a chance on anything else?
HIH
"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell - you see, I have friends in both places."Mark Twain
----------------------------------------------------
"All that's necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing."Benjamin Franklin
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bassndude
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posted on 7/29/10 at 10:51 PM |
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Hey Fins - does the Kleen Flo actually help? I haven't had luck with the Minn Kota stuff and some other battery equalizer product.
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finster
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posted on 7/29/10 at 11:03 PM |
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I get an average of 5 - 6 years out of most batteries.
My longest battery life was in a riding mower at 10 years. Probably just lucky with that one although I had a vehicle battery last 7 years.
I credit the Kleen Flo and regular inspection and maintenance.
"I don't like to commit myself about heaven and hell - you see, I have friends in both places."Mark Twain
----------------------------------------------------
"All that's necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing."Benjamin Franklin
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bassndude
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posted on 8/5/10 at 11:22 AM |
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Thanks Fins. I also get about 5-6 years out of batteries. I could use them
longer but the performance has been significantly diminished.
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